Rotating
different crops to assist with soil fertility is as old as
agriculture. Many gardeners I know avoid crop rotation because it can
be tricky to apply and yet its another free organic gardening method to improve the
productivity of your food garden, just like using the planets. My
blog this week talks about how to work with and get the most benefit
from crop rotation in your organic vegetable garden.
All
successful organic and biodynamic farmers and gardeners are very
conscious of the delicate balancing act they participate in by
working their soil to grow food, whilst at the same time, aiming to
progressively increase soil fertility. If the soil is pushed too
hard, the plants will lack vitality and attract pests and diseases.
If the soil is cared for as the top priority, then your green thumb
will appear, resulting in a very productive food garden.
Crop
rotation should be considered as part of your soil fertility tool
kit. In simple terms, crop rotation means that in the different beds
of your food garden or farm, you do not grow the same vegetables or
grains over and over in the same location. You move crops around in a
pattern with the sequencing of this pattern eventually resulting in
the same crop returning to the original bed. How you work with this
pattern is the art of crop rotation.
There
are a number of different methods of crop rotation used in organic
gardening. I will talk about the method I use which is based on
biodynamic gardening principles and can be applied to any food garden
or farm. Our Gardener subscriber web site has lots of searches to
support the method I will describe.
The
starting point is to allocate your vegetable, herb and grain crops
into the following groups:
Root:
for example, beetrrot, carrot, turnip and potatoe
Leaf:
for example, lettuce, cabbage and asian greens
Flower/seed:
for example, caulflower, wheat and broccoli
Fruit:
for example, beans, cucumbers and tomato
These
grouping are based on the predominant part of the plant you eat. You
can search all the vegetable, herbs and grains in our site by these
groupings in the Gardener subscriber site.
A
rotation should follow the pattern of : root, leaf, flower/seed and
fruit. This follows the way plants grow and will bring a natural
balance into the soil. It is helpful to insert a green manure crop
into the pattern and the ideal time is between root and leaf crops.
You can see a lengthy article and movie of mine on using green manure
crops here.
To
apply this rotation pattern in your garden, its best to have your
garden beds in fives because there are five groups: root, green
manure, leaf, flower/seed and fruit. In one of our vegetable gardens
we have 15 beds and in another we have 5 beds, always multiples of
five. Its ideal to start the groupings all at once. By this I mean,
do not start all root crops at once in the whole garden because this
will limit your diversity. Only have root crops in one bed and in the
other bed have fruit crops and so on as you fill your beds in
multiples of five. Even if you have a small garden you still split
the space into five.
To help with planning this, get
a sheet of paper and place columns across representing your main
growing seasons, for example in my climate I have Autumn and Spring,
so there are two main seasons per year and I will list this across
for three years, ie six cycles. Then down the rows have your beds
listed. In one row for a bed follow the sequence of root, green
manure, leaf, flower/seed and fruit. Then for the next bed row start
with green manure so its out of sequence to the first bed row, then
with the next bed start at leaf and so on. Now you have a high level
rotation plan and you are ready to decide on the crops to plant at
those times of the year. Our Gardener subscriber planting calendar provides you with the
information you need for this task.
As
you decide on the crops for your beds, its important to recognise the
concept of the predominant crop. By this I mean that if you have
broccoli as your predominant crop in the bed taking up most of the
space, then its ideal to have companion plants with it to help these crops
and even understory plants to take up the space. When I plant
broccoli, I use nasturtium, marigolds and corainder as companions to
help with pest reduction and in the space between the high growing
broccoli's I will grow lettuce as an edible ground cover crop. Use
the companion search in our site to help with these choices for all
crops.
If
you have a new garden with brought in soil or a dug up lawn, then I
suggest starting with a green manure crop over your whole garden and
then commencing the rotation pattern. This will ensure your garden
space receives a good tune-up before you start growing food.
Some
other important factors to consider:
Recording - Make
sure you have these two written planning tools:
- The
high level rotation plan described above;
- A
sheet in your garden journal for each bed and write down the crops
you have planted at each cycle.
Crop
families – All food crops below to botannical families. You can
find these families in the plant search in our web site. Its
important to not follow one family with the next family in the same
bed, as this can keep soil borne diseases around longer. This
principle can sometimes become tricky when following the rotation
pattern recommended above, for example, the brassica family includes
cabbage which is a leaf crop and broccoli which is a flower crop, so
if your rotation had predominant crops of leaf group (cabbage)
followed by flower group (broccoli), you would be keeping the same
family in the bed. In my experience, the way around this is to not
make the second group a predominant crop
There
are further instructional resources in our Gardener subscriber site
on crop rotation and many search tools which help with plant
selection and timing, including rotation considerations on every crop
based on families.
Later this year, we plan to release a major new
feature on our web site called the Garden bed manager which will
allow you to keep a full history of your garden beds and greatly
assist with rotation planning, plus lots of other features to help
manage your food garden. Much work to do before that new feature
is released!
Happy rotating.
Author:
Peter Kearney – www.cityfoodgrowers.com.au
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